Field Guide · hardware

Also known as: feedline, antenna feedline, coax run, low-loss coax

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A coax feedline is the outdoor cable run that carries signal from a rooftop or mast-mounted antenna down to your receiver. Unlike a bench pigtail, a feedline covers real distance, so its one job is to deliver that distance with as little loss as possible — which means thick, low-loss coax (RG8X, LMR-240, or LMR-400) with proper connectors, not the thin RG58 or RG316 that bleeds signal away over a long run. This page is about buying and specifying a feedline; for the physics of why cable loss climbs with frequency, see the coaxial cable reference.

rooftop antenna thick low-loss coax roof line SDR every dB hereis gone beforethe SDR sees it
A feedline's job is distance with minimal loss — thick low-loss coax and weatherproof connectors, sized to the run.

Choosing the cable

The trade is loss versus flexibility, and both are set by the cable’s thickness and construction:

  • RG8X / LMR-240 — a practical middle ground: noticeably lower loss than RG58, still flexible enough to route easily. Good for runs up to roughly 50 ft at VHF/UHF.
  • LMR-400 / RG213 — thick, stiffer, and lowest-loss; the choice for long masthead runs or the 700/800 MHz P25 bands where every dB counts.
  • RG58 / RG316 — thin patch-lead cable. Fine for a short jumper, wrong for an outdoor feedline: it throws away too much signal over distance, especially at UHF.

Because attenuation grows with frequency, match the cable to both the distance and the band. A 25 ft RG8X run that is unremarkable at VHF becomes worth upgrading to LMR-400 at 800 MHz. And buy it made to length with connectors already fitted unless you enjoy soldering PL-259s — a factory-terminated jumper is weatherproof and correctly matched out of the bag.

Connectors and weatherproofing

For the UHF land-mobile trunking bands, order the feedline with N connectors rather than PL-259: N is weatherproof and holds a clean 50 Ω match, while the non-constant-impedance UHF connector adds reflection and loss above a few hundred MHz. For HF/VHF, PL-259/SO-239 is fine and common. Either way, the last short hop into the dongle steps down to SMA with a pigtail or adapter.

Whatever connector you use, weatherproof every outdoor joint with self-amalgamating tape or a proper boot. Water in coax raises loss permanently and corrodes the connectors — the slow death of many rooftop antennas.

Relevance to GopherTrunk

GopherTrunk decodes whatever the SDR captures and has no view of the cable, so the feedline is precisely where a good rooftop antenna’s signal is most often lost before digitisation. A long or low-grade run quietly undoes the antenna: 6 dB of feedline loss discards three-quarters of the signal power. Two levers fix it — keep the run short and thick, or mount a low-noise amplifier at the antenna (fed via a bias tee) so its gain lands before the cable loss. Better still, where the antenna can be near a PC, skip the long RF run entirely: put the SDR at the window and send samples back over a USB extension, since USB length costs nothing while coax length costs signal. None of this changes what is decodable — encrypted traffic stays encrypted — but it sets the signal-to-noise every clear decode depends on.

Where to buy

For a real rooftop or mast run, buy a made-to-length low-loss feedline with connectors fitted — a factory-terminated LMR-240/RG8X jumper (around $30 for 25 ft) covers a typical run, stepping up to LMR-400 for long runs or the 700/800 MHz bands. Order the length you actually need and, for UHF, choose the N-connector variant over PL-259.

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For the loss physics behind the cable choice, see coaxial cable; for the whole RF chain, the SDR cables and connectors guide.

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Sources

Frequently asked questions

Which coax feedline should I buy for a rooftop SDR antenna?

Buy a made-to-length low-loss run — RG8X or LMR-240 for moderate distances, LMR-400 for long runs or the 700/800 MHz bands — with connectors already fitted. A factory-terminated 25 ft LMR-240/RG8X jumper (around $30) covers a typical run and spares you soldering PL-259s. For the UHF trunking bands, order it with N connectors rather than PL-259, which gets lossy above ~300 MHz. Do not use thin RG58/RG316 for an outdoor feedline.

How much cable loss is too much?

Six dB of feedline loss throws away three-quarters of your signal power before it reaches the SDR, and loss climbs steeply with frequency — a cable that is fine at VHF can be a poor choice at 800 MHz. Keep the run as short as you can, use thick low-loss cable, and if the run must be long, put a mast-mounted LNA at the antenna so its gain is applied before the loss.

RG8X, LMR-240, or LMR-400 for a feedline?

RG8X and LMR-240 are a good middle ground — noticeably lower loss than RG58, still flexible enough to route easily, fine for runs up to roughly 50 ft at VHF/UHF. LMR-400 is thicker, stiffer, and lowest-loss, the choice for long masthead runs or the 700/800 MHz P25 bands where every dB counts. Match the cable to the distance and frequency rather than overbuying stiff cable for a short bench run.

Should my feedline use PL-259 or N connectors?

For HF/VHF, PL-259/SO-239 is fine and common. For the UHF land-mobile trunking bands, prefer N: it is weatherproof and holds a clean 50 Ω match where the non-constant-impedance UHF connector adds reflection and loss above a few hundred MHz. Whichever you choose, weatherproof the outdoor joint — water in coax raises loss permanently.

Feedline or USB extension — which is better?

If you can, avoid a long RF run altogether: put the SDR at the window on a short pigtail and send the digital samples back over an active USB extension, since USB length costs almost nothing while coax length costs signal. Use a real low-loss feedline when the antenna genuinely must be far from any PC — a rooftop or mast install — and then keep it short, thick, and sealed.

See also